CULTURA SIN FRONTERA
With a quick nod of the head and a hefty “vamos!”, the steel gates swing open to release a charro-mounted bull. It spins relentlessly in tight circles, breaking out into furious bucks and bounds. Dust swallows the lienzo (arena) until only their silhouettes can be seen through the sepia veil.
It is over in 8 seconds— a winning time.
Although the charreria is the national sport of Mexico, its reach is ever-expanding. The San Antonio Charro Association became the first chapter established on American soil in 1947; over 100 charro associations have since formed across the U.S.
Today, these traditions are inseparable from Texan identity.
LAS CHARREADAS DE SAN ANTONIO
At the height of the charreada, a high-speed ballet unfolds.
Side-saddled escaramuzas tear through the dust, performing carefully synchronized routines entirely on horseback. Sharp turns, sprints, and crosses are executed in uninterrupted succession, often within inches of one another.
Absolute precision and flawless symmetry are key to escaramuza, the only women's sport within charreria.
Rey David Garcia, a charro from Puebla, Mexico, competes in bull-riding competitions across the state of Texas.
Charreria evolved from the cattle-raising practices introduced to Mexico by Spanish settlers, having arrived with orders from Conquistador Hernando Cortez to cultivate horses. Indigenous people, however, were prohibited from riding horses under the threat of the death penalty.
By the mid 1500s, Spanish settlers had developed massive cattle-raising estates called haciendas, and found it necessary to grant horseback riding permits under the condition indigenous people would not use Spanish saddles or garments of Spanish origin.
Mexican workers were forced to develop a unique attire and manner of riding in order to suite their needs— thus, the charro was born. As these new practices became established traditions, haciendas began to compete with one another; charros showcased their skills in horseback riding, roping, and cattle rearing.
Arlet Landero, 15, fixes her dress before performing for the A Day in Old Mexico Charreada, an event within the 2022 San Antonio Fiesta celebration.
At the height of the charreada, a high-speed ballet unfolds.
Side-saddled escaramuzas tear through the dust, performing carefully synchronized routines entirely on horseback. Sharp turns, sprints, and crosses are executed in uninterrupted succession, often within inches of one another.
Absolute precision and flawless symmetry are key to escaramuza, the only women's sport within charreria.
Although escaramuza was only officially recognized by the Federación Mexicana de Charrería in 1989, its roots reach deep into the heart if Mexican history and identity. During the Mexican Revolution, many women took up arms in the fight for land and civil liberties.
The soldaderas— also called Adelitas—performed complex maneuvers on horseback, kicking up great clouds of dust in order to disorient the Spanish army. Their legacy is diligently preserved by the escaramuzas; from their meticulously tied sashes to each perfectly timed turn, everything must be done with pinpoint accuracy.
(left) Kristy Escamilla demonstrates a the punta exercise she will be performing at the 2022 Fiesta event.
Alexa Chapa, the 2022 San Antonio Charro queen prepares for another late-night practice at the charro grounds.
Charros practice their roping skills into the night at the San Antonio Charro Association.